belem is the town where i got on the boat heading up the amazon river towards manaus. like all big brazilian cities, it has many faces. one of its face is poor, dirty, ugly, messy, and also somehow endearing with its rythm and naturality. another face is richer, cleaned up, comically attempting to impose order upon a messy national soul. interestingly, like many modern european and american cities, it has a completely made up modern regenerated area, filled with trendy bars and restaurants. in fact, it reminded me of revitilized parts of the american south, like new orelans.